Firenze a Milano [Florence to Milan]

Today I slept in.. but still managed to wake up before 8:45. I finished packing (which seems to take longer each time), ate breakfast and began my search for a camera. After an hour or two of searching, I found a Canon shop. I have a new snazzy digital Canon to work my magic, and the photos look great so far.

first shot of many photos on the new camera. (this is on the train.)

I caught the 12:00 train out of Florence and made it to Milan around two. Next I found my way to Marco's work, dropped my bags with him and began doing the Milanese tradition - shopping.

the Galleria - supposedly Europe's oldest mall.

another shot.

Piazza del Duomo. note the Duomo on the right and the entrance to the Galleria on the left.

the Duomo. beautiful.

Six hours later, I met back up with Marco (empty handed and with full-ish pockets), and we headed home to shower and go out. I still haven't quite adjusted to Italian time: we had dinner at 10:00. After a delicious meal and a couple glasses of wine, it's time to hit the sack.

Sorry the blogs have been so short the last couple of days. I just haven't been doing much touring.. Shopping, reading and eating have prevailed. I'm not sure what tomorrow holds. Depending on the weather, we may visit the lakes, run around town or just relax. I'll try to take more photos! :)

Not much to say today..

Today was relatively uneventful. I got up this morning and went to the laundry mat. From there, I headed to The Oil Shoppe - second day in a row - to take away a cheap meal. I dropped off my clothes, ate my delicious salad and headed off to site see.

First I went to the Santa Croce Church, a 14th century Franciscan church that houses the tombs of Galileo Galilei and Michelangelo among others. At this point, I realized I didn't have my camera, assumed I left it in the room and continued on to the Pitti Palace. With three separate museums and two gardens, this is a grand place. I toured the Royal Apartments, the Modern Art Gallery and the Costume gallery. So much art - sculptures, paintings, frescoes.. I can't keep it all straight. By this time (6:00), my feet hurt! I cannot remember a time when they have ever hurt like this from walking in Converse (or anything flat for that matter). Time to head back to the B&B.

Once back, I began researching tomorrow's stop: Milan. After figuring out a few things to do, I started packing and thought to look for my camera. Couldn't find it. I tore my small room apart in vain. I think I am the victim of a pick-pocket. Ugh. Poor criminal must have had bad karma. Most of you probably know how worn out my camera is; in fact, I dropped again at the Australian's apartment.. Now the front of the case is falling off. Not to mention the huge grey spot on the screen. He may have stolen a Canon camera, but odds are he won't get a cent for it. If he gives it to his nephew, the kid will probably throw it back at him, thinking the gift is a joke. I am grateful that he only got the camera, which is nearly worthless, and not my wallet. Whew.

Needless to say, I have no photos to share today.

After calming down and cooling down, I head to Trattoria "da Giorgio" recommended by my South Carolina friends and Rick Steve's. What a great place! I had a three course meal for 14€ and made two new friends, Emily and James from Nottingham, England! We found a nearby pub and enjoyed wine/beer while listening to a Florentine (weirdly) cover familiar old songs and crazy Italian ones. We had a great time.

Although my wallet's zipper broke, I lost my camera and my feet are dead, today was not an awful day. I'm in Italy, remember?! Tomorrow I am off to visit my friend Marco Polli in Milan. I met him in high school when he did a foreign exchange at Vancleave High. I can't wait!

Art Aplenty

Today was a day I wish my Anna was with me - she would have been very helpful in describing how art progressed from Medieval times until the Renaissance.

I woke up early to visit Michelangelo's David. Bad news: no photographs allowed in either of the museums. David was at the Accademia, along with six of Michelangelo's unfinished pieces. David was great. He's huge. But I think my favorite were actually the unfinished works on display. These included four prisoners, St. Matthew and a Pieta. When looking at the majestic David, it is hard to imagine him ever being a huge piece of stone. However, these unfinished prisoners looked like they were whole, just waiting to be cut out of the marble. Michelangelo believed that his art was the work of God; he never built models or sketches - instead he let the marble show him what was below the surface. I can definitely understand what he meant by looking at the figures emerging from the stone. They were amazing. The chisel marks are still visible.

Next, I decided to finally enter the Duomo that I live so close to. While most of the art is in the next door museum, here's a shot of the altar.

After a little rest, I began walking again.. If I don't have the best leg muscles ever after this trip, something is wrong. I have never walked as much in my life.

There was some sort of demonstration in Piazza Signoria, right next door to the Palazzo Vecchio. I'm not sure what the group was saying, but I do believe they sang a national anthem or another well known song, as onlookers chimed in.

Next, another work of art.

gelato and fruit. and my book!

On to the Uffizi Gallery! Couldn't take pictures of this art either, but got some shots of the city..

this is Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge) where TONS of jewelry shops are located.

Oltrarno. (other side of the river)

The Uffizi houses Giotto's Madonna and Child, Duccio's Madonna and Child with Angels, Cimabue' Madonna and Child with Angels, Simone Martini's Annunciation, Gentile da Fabriano's Adoration of the Magi, Filippo Lippi's Madonna and Child with Two Angels, and Pollauiolo's Labors of Hercules. Quite a Roman Catholic theme. The Medieval art was mainly religious - it acted as a teaching tool for Bible stories and stories of the saints' lives. It began as flat, elementary pictures, and slowly added perspective and depth, peaking around the time of Michelangelo. Cool, cool, cool. Near the end of the museum, I ran into my friends Jim and John from cooking class! We went to the nice outdoor terrace and had coffee. Great view of the Palazzo Vecchio:

Upon their recommendation, I hiked to the Piazzale Michelangelo, a nice piazza raised high above town and offering an amazing view of the city. 

The piazza also offers a bronze copy of David for all to stare at it awe.

Interesting fact: historians and artists argue whether David is contemplating fighting the giant or if he has already won the battle. The current literature at the Accademia says he is looking on in triumph, while my audio guide (Rick Steves) says that he is calm but in deep concentration, knowing that he will have to use intuition and wit, not brute force.

John (Ireland) and I met up for dinner. We decided to try a restaurant recommended by fellow classmates Perry and Meredith. So we did, and guess what! John and Jim again. The four of us enjoyed another amazing meal together. What fun.

After John and I had dessert and coffee (I'm getting used to this) and talked, talked, talked. So nice. Now it's off to bed late again.. 2:20. I have decided to stay an extra day in Florence, then I will be off to visit Marco in Milan on Friday. 

Thanks for all of the comments and emails. I'm glad to be updated on what's going on at home! Keep it coming!

Wine, Cook, Wine. Walk.

I got up bright and early this morning to meet the Accidental Tourist guide and fellow members for a wine and cook tour of a subdivision of Tuscany. Breakfast was delivered to my room promptly at 8:30 - can't beat that.

view of the Arno River from Ponte Alle Grazie (a bridge).

The other "tourists" included Jim and John from Boston, Meredith and Perry from Virginia, John from Ireland and our guide Steve, an American who has lived in Italy for 30 years.. I think. We all climbed into a nine-seater van and began our journey to wine country.

view of the river with wine hills in the background.

grape vines. yum.

looking down over grape and olive fields.

After many, many winding and bumpy roads, we reached our first stop: the Grignano vineyard. This house and property was built as more of a status symbol than actual home decades ago, and now sits vacant except for once a year when the Milanese owners hold a fashion show and reception on site.

what if this were home?

view from the villa. pictures don't do it justice.

Steve showed us around the estate and explained how wine and olive oil is made with the fruit of this vineyard and the work of local hands.

hundreds of old bottles create an inventory of past vintages.

As soon as the olives are ready to be picked (first of November), a crew of about forty start on the job. Traditionally this took twice the man power and almost double the time, but recent advances in technology has made picking the olives very efficient. Olives are separated from leaves and stems, cleaned and disinfected, and dropped down into this machine.

Here the olives are pressed. Basically they are smashed together whole, pit, skin, etc. Next a centrifuge is  used to separate some of the water, filters strain out solids, and another centrifuge removes more the water. If one were to pick an olive off of the tree and eat it, he would be surprised to find a very bitter taste. This bitterness is in the liquid of the olive. Therefore, it is important to remove the water (bitterness) from the oil. Next the oil is placed into these large ceramic vats, as they have been for over a century.

inscribed: Fornace Grignano 1891 - made in the kill on site in 1891. pretty cool.

Next was our wine lesson. Similarly the grapes are picked and very quickly put into the process. Machines remove stems and automatically begin the smashing the grapes. Interesting fact: red wine uses the entire grape, while white only uses the juice. Why? To make red wine red and white wine not red. After fermenting in stainless steel vessels, the wine is transferred to large oak barrels.

After this informational (and interesting) tour, we had a chance to taste the fruit of their vines: oil and wine. Delicious.

Next, on to cooking. We made ravioli stuffed with spinach, ricotta cheese, parmasean cheese, freshly grated nutmeg and a pinch of salt. The pasta was made with 4/5 cup Semola (a type of flour), one egg and a pinch of salt.

Steve chops up spinach for our ravioli.

group pic as Steve and John use the pasta makers.

look!! I'm making pasta!

what a great family. see our delicious ravioli?

Jim, John, me, John, Meredith, Perry

After preparing the pasta, we found a huge meal prepared for us. We enjoyed artichoke omelets, tomatoes with bread crumbs, pizza, our ravioli in a butter and sage sauce, our fettucini with a tomato sauce, homemade strawberry gelato, and coffee. It was so good I was barely hungry for dinner.

saying goodbye to Tuscany.

Upon returning to Florence, I shopped around a bit and enjoyed being in the city. Irish John and I met up for dinner (chicken and artichoke salad), meandered around the city, and had a nightcap of gelato and coffee.  I could get used to this.

After this terribly late night (2:00am), I am getting up early to run to the Accademia to tell Michelangelo's David hello, visiting other tourists spots during the day, and the Uffizi Museum in the afternoon! GOOD NIGHT!

Sorrento to Florence!

My original plan for the day was to wake up early, catch an 8:40 bus to a 9:10 train to Naples for my 10:50 train to Florence. But after my amazing night last night, I slept until 9:15, had a slow and nice breakfast, showered, packed, caught the 11:30 bus to the 12:00 train to the 13:50 train to Florence.

 

this is the views from my room. I had to say goodbye to THIS.

It was so much nicer to take my time and not rush - I am on vacation after all.

 

train views of wine country.

I finally made it to my B&B around 17:00 (5:00). The room is very quaint, but the location and views are great! ...and breakfast will be brought to my room in the morning.

 

views from my room. building on the right is called Baptistery.

building on the right is the Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore).

street level of the Duomo.

bronze doors of Baptistery by Lorenzo Ghiberti 

- Michelangelo said these were fit to be the gates of paradise.

Since I had a light lunch in Naples (between trains) I was starving! I cooled off from the 10 minute walk with all of my luggage, and headed toward a dining spot.

For dinner I had rose wine, pasta with tomatoes and mozarella, and strawberries and cream pudding. Delicious.

dinner scene.

After dinner, I began walking back toward my B&B (near the Duomo) and found myself behind some American students - they are everywhere in Florence. I figured students would know the hot spots in town, so I began following them. A few minutes into the walk, an American lady stopped me to ask where we were.. She had been following me! So, together, we began the search for a hot spot in town. From Philadelphia, she was on a week vacation to Rome and Florence. We finally found a nice piazza and settled in to watch the people and sip on wine and coffee.

view from our nightcap cafe. this is Palazzo Vecchio (i think).

I am now back at my bed and breakfast - great location. Time for bed. Not much action today - mainly traveling and relaxing. Tomorrow I am going on a Wine and Cook tour; I'll be able to seen some of the Tuscan country side and enjoy a little Italian cooking lesson! yay!



As for my theory on Italian vs. American lifestyles... prepare yourself.

I taxied from the train station in Sorrento to my hotel. When the taxi driver realized I was American, he said that all Americans were rich. I denied it by saying, "Well this one surely isn't."

In Rome, I met an Neapolitan (a guy from Naples) that was practicing law in Naples and decided it wasn't for him. He worked in London for three months, then moved to Rome to manage a gelateria. How many Americans do you know would get a law degree, practice for a year or two, and then completely abandon it to work at a tourist driven shop?

In Amalfi I sat at a cafe for an hour or two watching and thinking. The two waiters (aged late 20s and early 60s) served graciously, the garbage man (probably in his 50s) emptied the trash and swept the streets, a girl (mid-20s) watched over a souvenir shop. I cannot see any of these people complaining about their jobs, wishing they would have gotten a grand degree at a major university, or abandoning work to collect unemployment. Sure, you have the beggars in the streets, but most people take pride in what they do, whether that is drive a bus or sell limoncello.

The taxi driver said all Americans are rich. This, obviously, is not true. But just think about it. Americans work, work, work so hard all of the time. We are trying to climb the corporate ladder, or get promoted, or make more money, or buy nicer cars. We want the awesome degrees and the long titles. Then we go and spend that money (and more that we don't have) traveling and living outrageously. Whereas, (in my view at least) Italians are happy. They "live a simple life" as my taxi driver said. If their father made wine, maybe they take over the vineyard. If Uncle Roberti knows a guy who owns a tour company, maybe you'll go and drive a bus. They take whatever money they make, go home to their families (perhaps earlier each day than Americans), make their quaint, albeit delicious meals, and take the month of August to travel within Italy, visiting family and not living outside of their means.

On the other hand, we take our meager two week vacation from work and spend it crazily, working ourselves in to more debt and not simply living and enjoying family. While we are not all rich, we all do live lavishly - or as lavishly as we can get away with. We are never satisfied with just being, just living our little lives and enjoying each day that we are given.

So that's my two bits on that. And that's why I have a lover, and her name is Italia.

Why wouldn’t ya?

What an amazing, wonderful, perfect, great day!

This morning I got up early, caught the continental breakfast in my very American hotel, and headed for Sorrento. I was going to make the trek to Amalfi and return early for mass, but heard the bells ringing while looking for the bus stop, so went to mass first instead. Best decision of the trip thus far. Don’t worry, I’ll tell you why.

Mass was nice. Similar to last Sunday, I was probably the only English-speaking person in attendance. No worries – I responded quietly in English. Something I found interesting, but obviously not unique to this church, an organ played the entrance but the singing did not begin until the priest made it to the altar and led the congregation in song. The priest sang every song! Father, what do you think about that?

After mass, I wandered around for nearly 20 minutes looking for the bus stop. I finally found it after listening to Italian and broken-English directions from three passers-by. Whew. And then the roller coaster began: our track was winding roads, s-curves up and down mountains. Our barriers were lemon trees and stonewalls. Our obstacles were small, parked cars; zooming scooters; and passing buses. Our scenery was beautiful.

When the bus stopped at Positano, I hopped off, ready to meet the day’s adventure – what a challenge I found. I was immediately lost. I followed the road sign down a street toward the town, but, as I was walking and not driving, this was probably not the best option. I found a staircase going downhill, and I tried it. Halfway down I decided that I would pay for a taxi if this was the way I had to return to the bus.

When I made it to the town center, I was greeted by a charming town with art galleries and shops. I grabbed a take-away sandwich, peered into many shops and windows, and meandered back upward, toward a different bus stop. [Thank heaven!] Next stop: Amalfi.

Exhausted from the worry of finding the bus stop and eating lunch on the go, I decided to sit, eat, drink, and people watch. Steps from the Duomo’s grand staircase, I enjoyed an espresso and lemon cake. Oh! The lemons!! They are amazing. I know some of you have tasted my limoncello before – but, man, oh, man – that was nothing. This stuff is delicious. Today I tried it all: limoncello, limoncello crème, lemon chocolate, limoncello gelato, frozen lemonade. The lemons are sweet, not tart. I can’t even describe the flavor. All I can say is YUM.

After this nice snack, I headed up the main street to (once again) window shop. The wares included touristy trinkets such as limoncello (surprise), leather sandals and purses, figurines, and paper (which the city used to manufacture). By this point, I have had enough of shopping and walking. I decided to head to the beach to enjoy the weather (chilly, mostly cloudy: I was glad to be wearing light pants and many layers of shirts).

And then, BAM, the highlight of the week: I met my Australian family. Sorry, Molan’s, these spellings are probably all wrong; I’m doing the best I can from phonetics. Mauz was joking about jumping in the freezing water, but said he needed encouragement. A few in his family shouted, “Do it, do it!” so I joined in. We immediately became friends and began sharing travel stories. Ginny (short for Virginia, I believe, so maybe with a ‘g’) decided it was time to head in for a latte, so I joined her and Mauz (her hubby) for a latte on the square. A latte turned to pizza on their veranda, turned to cooking lasagna, turned to eating, turned to limoncello, and finally gelato on the way to my bus stop.

In the ten hours we spent together, I feel like I am part of the family! I learned many Australian words [“sunnies” for sunglasses]; Molan phrases and their origins [FOMO – fear of missing out]; family nicknames, which are critical to Aussie life [Ren, Mauri, Mauz, Ginny, Jack]; the story behind each kid’s name [John Jeremy James “Jack” Molan, poor guy]; and how to make Italian-Australian lasagna. I was (and am) so sad to have left their (interesting) apartment. I wish I could have traveled with them the rest of their trip. They are on a month-long holiday that began with the wedding of a cousin in Austria. While 82 members of the family traveled from Australia to Austria for the wedding, the seven of them (two parents, two sons, one daughter, a daughter-in-law, and a boyfriend) continued on their journey across Eastern Europe and over to Italy.

preparing our lasagna feast on the terrace.

busy, busy, busy.

our meal! and our family portrait!

Left to right: Jack, Mauz, Maurice, Sr., Mauri, me,  Ginny [Ren took the photo and I never met Kate - she was in bed sick :( ]

This is why I'm happy to be alone!

I feel like I have so much to share about them and some other revelations I had today about Italian vs. American culture, but tonight is not the night. No worries – they will come soon.

Also! I had déjà vu this evening as Ginny shared her wedding photos (from last April). The memory felt two years old. I always know that something is right when I have such a strong déjà vu – superstitious or not, I am so happy to have met this family. I feel blessed to have crossed paths with them. Get ready Molan’s! I’m coming to stay with you in Australia!!!

Oh, and “ALLL- right! Get off me back!” bahahah. Thanks for everything y’all! I really do miss you already! :)

Tomorrow: Florence!

Rome to Naples to Sorrento to SLEEP

What a day! I left Rome. :( It was really starting to feel like home. (Rhyme!) One thing that I won’t miss: that hard bed.. I think my back is still hurting from it. I got up super early to make my 9:00 train. That was only 14 hours ago, but, man, it feels like weeks. Made it to Naples with no problems. This city is known for pick pocket-ers and other pesky, non-violent crime. Someone told me today that I must be a brave girl; good news is that I haven’t found anything missing yet. Mom, I promise I was/am SO careful. My muscles are so intimidating that people don’t even look at me twice for fear.

In Naples, I toured the National Archaeological Museum. As “home to the greatest collection of ancient art and artifacts in the world”, the inventory was quite large – I could have spent much longer. But, as the swift traveler I am, I only allotted myself about an hour. A big part of these artifacts was recovered from Pompeii and Heculaneum, nearby areas that were buried by Mt. Vesuvius’ eruption in A.D. 79. Highlights:

  

Dancers. I want them to be named the dancing mimes. just saying.

Athletes. they are in this for the glory. check out their eyes.

Distinguished Roman. not just a Roman. he’s distinguished.

Druken Satyr. hmm.

FYI: definition: 

satyr |ˈsatər; ˈsātər|

noun

1 Greek Mythology one of a class of lustful, drunken woodland gods. In Greek art they were represented as a man with a horse's ears and tail, but in Roman representations as a man with a goat's ears, tail, legs, and horns.

• a man who has strong sexual desires.

So wouldn’t all satyrs be drunk and lolling in their stupors?

he holds the weight of the world on his shoulders.

 the Blue Vase from Pompeii made in the first century A.D. 

can you believe this thing is here? and in one piece?

old dice. hah. i guess there have always been gamblers.

Artemis of Ephesus – her many breasts are supposedly a symbol of fertility. 2^nd century A.D.

Hercules at rest. Roman copy, between 2^nd and 3^rd centuries A.D., 

from a Greek original of second half 4^th century B.C.

the Farnese Bull.

Myth of the “Punishment of Dirce” from the museum: Dirce is guilty of maltreating Antiope, her punishment is to be tied to a bull by Antiope’s sons, Zetus and Amphion. The scene is set on Mount Cithaeron in Boeotia, which was sacred to the god Dionysus. The cruel and spiteful torture to which Dirce is subjected is a typical Dionysiac theme.

Venus.

From the museum: “The young girl uncovers her nudity with a deliberate effect created by the softness of her body and the heavy fall of the drapery. Although it has been subject to much restoration (the whole upper part, left are, right hand and right leg are modern), the composition of the statue remains substantially unaltered. Handed down to us are the key features of Hellenistic creation, but its interpretation is controversial, in terms of the subject it represents (Aphrodite, an hetaira or a dancer), its date (3^rd or 2^nd century BC) and its geographical origin (Magna Grecia or Asia Minor).

Next I headed to Cappella Sansevero. Here Giuseppe Sammartino’s Cristo Velato (Veiled Christ) is available to view.  Sculpted in 1753, this masterpiece depicts Christ’s body draped with a thin veil. Amazing. It was probably worth the hour I spent looking for it. No pictures allowed. Google it! (You can click on that in blue, and it will Google automatically.)

Napoli (Naples)

There was something funny about Naples. No, I didn’t get robbed, but I did get lost. I got on the metro, waited for 20 minutes, then they told us it was closed. (I think… it was all in Italian: I just follow along.) Finally I got out of there, hopped on a train and made it to Sorrento! I am staying in a beautiful hotel with an amazing view! I feel like I’m on vacation, especially after that wild day in Naples. As soon as I got into the room, I took a hot bath. I don’t think I have ever needed one so badly as at that moment.

views from my room:

I was lost in Naples, had to ride a long train, walked in the rain with all of my stuff for about 20 minutes, paid too much for a cab. I needed that bath. After showering up, I strolled along the main Piazza and shopping lanes. I followed the advice of my hotel and went to Zintonio. It looked like something you would see in Little Italy. It didn’t look very impressive – I almost broke the reservation and went somewhere else. Boy, was I wrong?! It was delicious. Some (new) friends from Illinois at the next table loved it so much, they came back for a second meal for their four day stay. I had the Caprese salad and the Ravioli – Caprese style. I was praying for a bigger stomach so that I could eat more.

Now, safely at home in this beautiful hotel, I am beat. Tomorrow I am going to ride the bus up and down the Amalfi Coast, visit towns like Positano, Amalfi and Ravello. I’m sort of reminded of Hawaii here: mountain to the northwest and sea to the southeast. What a nice holiday during my vacation! (Brits say holiday; Americans are the only ones to call it a “vacation”.)

Oh! I bought some boots today in Naples. [Don’t laugh at me Gabriel! (That’s my new Brazilian friend; he thinks it’s silly that girls like {and buy} shoes so much.]

and my new sunglasses.